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  • For what it’s worth, I’ve owned a ’58 model for 9 years and I love it.  It handles like a 172 and is light on the controls, especially in pitch.  The manual flaps can’t be beat and the visibility is great over the nose and above you.  I’ve landed in some robust cross winds without any more effort than a newer 182.  Yes, the cabin is cramped com…[Read more]

  • In IMG 6853 it looks like the heat cable is connected to the arm with a lock nut.  I believe that should be a castellated nut and cotter pin (AC 43.13-1B) since it rotates.  In any case, it looks like there are too few threads showing at the end of the bolt.  As for the odd fit, I’d guess that is the wrong airbox for your bird.  It looks like som…[Read more]

  • I will decrease RPMs a bit shortly after takeoff to reduce engine wear and noise.  I leave the throttle wide open until I reach cruise.  The manifold pressure decreases as you climb anyway.  By the time you have climbed 1000 feet you’ve lost an inch.  And don’t forget about the power enrichment valve if you have a carburetor.  Sometimes call…[Read more]

  • You mean the starter adapter?  The O-470 uses an adapter that the starter bolts to.  What makes you think the starter is engaged?  Does it drag when you turn the prop backwards?   I found out from Continental that the newer adapters will do that on occasion and that there is nothing wrong with it.  If you turned the prop forward and felt the star…[Read more]

  • The service manual might have some insight on that but I’d use any good automotive wheel bearing grease.  Airplanes spend very little of their time on the ground after all.

  • That raised spot is called exfoliation and is considered a serious form of corrosion, though there is only one spot in that photo.  The rest appears to be surface corrosion.  The question is whether the structural strength is compromised to the point of being un-airworthy.  I hardly think it is grounds for a new wing though something needs to be…[Read more]

  • When the tires were replaced the brake pads were taken loose to get the wheel off.  When the pads are reinstalled, the calipers can be a little tight and cause some drag until the pads realign with the disk.   This should go away after your first flight or even a taxi trip if you use the brakes.  It’s pretty hard to get the wheel nut so tight th…[Read more]

  • Holding the nose off with full up elevator is the best way to avoid shimmy.  That being said, the technique works best for avoiding shimmy, not to remedy it once it starts.  Once the shimmy starts, there isn’t much you can do to stop it until, as you said, the airplane slows down.  The reason this method works is that with the strut fully ex…[Read more]

  • It depends on what, if any, work was done besides routine maintenance.  If control cables were adjusted, engine components repaired or replaced, or anything was taken apart that might leak fuel or oil then I’d be very careful on the preflight.  Presumably the engine was run with the cowl off to check for leaks after the oil was changed.  Of co…[Read more]

  • Loose or corroded connections might be your problem.  Check the ground connection also.

  • You can blow into the vent and should sense a little resistance, depending on how much fuel is in the tank.  There is a check valve that will allow air in but should close the other way.  Short of taking the vent line loose at the tank, I can’t think of a way to blow the debris out.  A vacuum probably won’t work since it needs a source of air go…[Read more]

  • I’m referring to the carb heat control.  That’s in the airbox mounted below the carburetor.  There is a valve that rotates when you pull the heat on or off and it has a scat type seal (that black, flexible stuff you see on baffles) so that the valve only allows heated (unfiltered) air or outside (filtered) air.  Sometimes that seal material br…[Read more]

  • You might want to check your carburetor airbox to see if the seals are in place and the carb heat valve closes tightly before you think about spending money on a different air filter.  I know some folks like those fancy after market filters like the Challenger but I have my doubts that they work any better than the Brackett filter you have.  I h…[Read more]

  • You can nail down the offending cylinder at least.  Start the engine cold, let it idle or run at whatever it takes to make it miss for a minute or so.  Shut down and feel the cylinders.  One will be cooler than the others and that will be the one with the miss.  For what it’s worth, if it runs that way on both mags it is probably a sticking val…[Read more]

  • I’ve dressed out worse than that in few minutes.  That’s an easy repair.

Randall Boan

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@62611

active 1 day, 23 hours ago